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June 3, 1997
The secrets of cast-iron cookware
By CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL
SPECIAL TO THE TAB

I never cease to be flabbergasted by the prices home cooks will pay for cookware that is either ill-suited for the task at hand or three times more expensive than a perfectly serviceable alternative.

Perhaps it is offensive to my deep-rooted sense of Yankee frugality, a set of values that warms to the feel of a 30-year-old cast-iron Dutch oven and shrinks at the notion of a similar Le Creuset pot which retails for well over $100. (The equivalent 5-quart cast iron Dutch oven sells for $28.)

So when I am asked what sort of cookware to purchase, my first reaction is to espouse the virtues of cast iron. To introduce a note of objectivity into this recommendation, however, I set out to buy, test and cook with the cast iron that is on the market today.

The two most important features of any piece of cookware are heat conductivity and heat retention. Cast iron excels in both categories. Once a piece of cast iron is up to temperature, it retains heat well both because of the properties of cast iron as well as the sheer weight and mass of the pan.

An 8-inch cast-iron pan weighs just over 4 pounds, yet a stainless steel skillet with an aluminum bottom weighs half as much, a bit over 2 pounds. In addition, a cast-iron pan heats evenly; there are no hot spots. The only drawback to cast iron is that since it is so good at retaining heat, the pan will not adjust rapidly to changes in temperature. However, since cast iron is not often used for saucepans, just for skillets and Dutch ovens, this is not relevant.

Other than weight, the only real drawback of cast iron is that it is considered "reactive"--that is, acidic foods can react with the metal, causing changes in flavor and color. In my experience, this threat is overplayed. A well-seasoned cast-iron skillet or pot is pretty much non-reactive, and this point is also made by the manufacturers. A small amount of wine or tomatoes won't be affected. However, a very acidic combination, a good dose of vinegar or a pure tomato sauce, is best cooked in a non-reactive pan.

I started by testing three different types of pans. You can purchase the standard line of cast iron (Lodge is one manufacturer) which hasn't changed much since the turn of the century. It is cheap (a 10-inch skillet runs only $10), but does require proper seasoning.

The second type of cast iron is made by Wagner, which offers cast-iron cookware that is much smoother than the traditional rough surface skillets. I tested them, and found that although they were smoother at first, after proper seasoning and a couple of weeks of use, both the traditional pans and these newer, smoother pans performed about the same.

The revelation came when I discovered a third type of pan made by Benjamin and Medwin. They produce a line of cast iron called Quantum, which is billed as nonstick cookware. I tested their 11 1/2-inch skillet using the same method I employed in my book, _The Cook's Bible_. I fried an egg in it using no shortening whatsoever. To my surprise, the egg did not stick. Since these pans are a fraction of the cost of All-Clad or Calphalon nonstick pans, and comparable in price to the basic Lodge cast iron, I highly recommend them.

So instead of purchasing an $85 nonstick skillet and a $120 Le Creuset Dutch oven, take my advice and invest a fraction of those dollars in cast iron. Here is a short list of what to purchase. Although the Benjamin and Medwin line is limited, their Quantum Supercast Non-Stick cast-iron cookware does perform as advertised. I suggest purchasing the 10 1/2-inch skillet, a good size for most weekday tasks, and then a larger 12-inch or 13-inch skillet from either Lodge or Wagner. These will run under $20 for the 12-inch and close to $30 for the 13-inch version. For a Dutch oven, however, I would opt for the 5-quart from Quantum Supercast. A larger size can also come in handy (they are available from Lodge in either 7- or 10-quart sizes.) You can reach Benjamin and Medwin at (212) 686-0060; 230 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10001; Lodge can be reached at (423) 837-7181. Most skillets can be purchased with either glass or iron covers.

How to season a cast iron pan

I have tested vegetable oil versus Crisco versus bacon fat, and found no difference in finish, nor did any of these foods turn rancid over time.

1 cast iron skillet or Dutch oven
1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil depending on size of pan

Place pan over high heat for 4 to 5 minutes or until you cannot leave your outstretched hand 1 inch above the bottom surface of the pan for more than 2 seconds. Meanwhile, tear off 6 sheets of paper towel in 2-sheet bunches. Wearing heavy oven mitts over both hands, remove pan from heat and pour in oil. Holding handle in one hand, rub oil into pan with first batch of towels. Repeat with second and third sets of paper towels. If this is a new pan, repeat twice. After each use, rub gently with a stiff brush and soapy water, rinse, dry and then repeat process above. Once pan is fully seasoned, repeat process every second or third use, or when the pan starts to lose its smooth, nonstick finish.

Christopher Kimball is the founder and editor of _Cook's Illustrated_ magazine, based in Brookline. He is the author of _The Cook's Bible_ (Little Brown; New York, NY; 1996).

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